The Manteau-de-lit or Bed-gown is a T-shaped unfitted jacket that may be lined or unlined, with a shawl collar that continues into robings. It is knee-length, has seven-eighth length sleeves and underarm gussets. The bed-gown may be held closed with straight pins or an apron, for which diagrams and directions are included. Very easy to construct, the bedgown is reversible when lined. Available in sizes S (6-8) to XXL (22-24), one size per pattern.
Manteau-de-Lit or Bed-gown
This design is my interpretation of Figures 7-12, Plate 15 from Description des Arts et Metiers, by M. Garsault, Paris, 1769 as published in The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 by Norah Waugh. The jacket is described as follows:
"The bed-gown (manteau-de-lit). This is cut from two or four lengths of material according to the width. The sleeves are cut en chemise, that is, in one with the body; the squares cut from the side of the gown are added to the sleeves to give extra length...The back is straight across the top and has an inverted pleat at centre back. The front...has an extra piece on top,...which is formed into a pleat and folded to fit the neck...An inverted pleat is set [in at] each side [of] the waist."
The bed-gown is fairly close fitting around the torso. If you wish to make a looser garment, please select one size larger than you normally wear.